Chloe Sevigny for Opening Ceremony A/W 09
Ever since she first graced our screens over 10 years ago, briefly in Sonic Youth’s "Sugar Kane" video, then more fully as the HIV-infected Jennie in Larry Clark’s harrowing "Kids"; Chloe Sevigny has captivated with a unique mix of steely toughness, sloe-eyed beauty and heartbreaking vulnerability. Put simply, there’s no-one else like her. She can find hidden depths in marginalized characters like put-upon socialite, Alice in 'Last Days of Disco' or conflicted Laurel in Woody Allen’s 'Melinda & Melinda', often making them more riveting than the central protagonists. The roll call of directors she’s worked with, from Lars Von Trier, David Fincher and Whit Stillman, have helped cement her position as a fearless actress, willing to take on challenging, often controversial roles. While her Oscar-nominated turn as Lana Tisdel, white trash girlfriend of a doomed transgendered in "Boys Don’t Cry" remains her finest movie role, her increasingly nuanced and rich turn as Nicolette Grant, second wife in a polygamist family, in HBO’s "Big Love" should see her win her first Emmy nomination.
自從十多年前在音速青春音樂錄影帶驚鴻一瞥我們，接著是【衝擊年代】感染人類免疫缺陷病毒的珍妮；小克兼容並蓄了堅忍不拔，杏眼之美以及令人心碎的脆弱易傷。簡單來說，小克是獨一無二的。在被邊緣化人物找到深度，例如【最後迪斯可】天真善良的艾莉絲，或者【雙面瑪琳達】自我矛盾的蘿拉，她們總是比主角更引人入勝。記載拉斯馮提爾，大衛芬奇和懷特史提曼的履歷表，鞏固了小克無畏，勇於挑戰爭議之地位。奧斯卡提名【男孩別哭】的拉娜蒂朵，末日變性人白人垃圾女朋友，仍然是她生涯最好角色，然而【大愛劇場】日益變本加厲的妮琪小賤人，值得艾美獎肯定。
Through all this, she’s been embraced by the fashion world for an effortlessly cool and idiosyncratic style. A love of dress up and thrift-shopping started as a young girl in the middle class enclaves of Darien, Connecticut and led to her being hailed by Jay McInerney in The New Yorker as the "coolest girl in the world". After previous stints as creative director for now-defunct label, Imitation Of Christ and modelling in campaigns for Miu Miu and Dolce & Gabbana, Chloe Sevigny staked her own claim in the fashion world by designing a collection for New York boutique, Opening Ceremony in 2007. Inspired by New Wave music and her youth, the engaging mix of Liberty prints and vintage stylings proved an instant hit which led to the introduction of menswear for A/W 09. While backpacks with a plastic pocket for cigarettes and 50’s influenced brothel creepers were some of the more quirky pieces, there were plenty of adorable knits, button down shirts, jackets in relaxed tailoring, not to mention kick ass boots that will be desirable to both young men and their girlfriends. Chloe also injected a bit of New York attitude to London Fashion Week with a riotous party at The Double Club playing a DJ set that was heavy on 80’s nostalgia.
走過風風雨雨，小克以不費工夫酷炫和靈性成為時尚界寵兒。少女時期就愛打扮，長大被《紐約客》雜誌譽為「全世界最酷的女孩」。擔任創意總監，走秀伸展台，小克前年為紐約精品店「開幕儀式」設計系列時裝，發表小克時尚宣言。靈感來自新浪潮音樂和青春年少，秋冬男裝碎花與老學校的結合立即蔚為風潮。縫上香煙塑膠口袋的背包，以及五零年代花花公子是其中巧妙，還有諸多可愛隨性針織衫、襯衫和夾克，更不消說男男女女都求之若渴的酷炫長筒靴。小克也在倫敦時尚週擔任唱盤騎師，為懷舊八零派對注入一鼓紐約態度。
Dazed Digital: Were you surprised by the success of the first collection?
對於初試啼聲成功感到驚訝嗎？
Chloe Sevigny: I was and the shoes did really really well. Originally we were just gonna do menswear or unisex this season but I thought we should do some girl’s shoes because I still see some of the editors wearing them. So the shoes, people really respond to. But I was really surprised. Especially for me, Opening Ceremony’s such a perfect and organic fit.
我感到驚訝，且鞋子真的反應良好。原本這季只想著手男裝或中性服飾，但我覺得還是要照顧一下女鞋，因為還是看到有些編輯在穿。所以說鞋子，大家真的很捧場。但我真的很驚訝。尤其是我，如此完美與有機如「開幕儀式」。
With Humberto (Leon, Opening Ceremony co-founder), we’ve always seen each other around and we go to the same parties, like the same kind of music, dance at the same clubs, have a lot of the same friends. So we just had a lot of the same references when we were designing the collection. It was a very natural fit for me.
我總是和亨柏多 (開幕儀式創辦人) 不期而遇，出入同個派對，喜歡一樣的音樂，在同個俱樂部跳舞，擁有許多共同朋友。所以設計系列時我們就是分享許多借鏡。渾然天成。
DD: Your first collection was inspired by your Junior High years, is your menswear from the same period?
初試啼聲乃啟發自國中歲月，男裝也是脫胎自同時期嗎？
CS: I guess so. I was hoping that a lot of pieces were more timeless. A shirt jacket in navy, it could be from any period. We wanted to make lots of oversize jackets for girls. My favourite piece is probably the full pants. But they’re all pretty classic pieces.
我想是的。我希望它們可以更不受時間限制。一件海軍藍夾克，可能來自任何年代。我們想製造更多給女孩穿的寬大外套。我的最愛是長褲。真的很經典。
DD: You’ve appeared on the cover of L’uomo Vogue in menswear. What’s your take on androgyny?
妳曾在義大利「風尚」以男裝露面。對於陰陽人有何看法？
CS: When I was 19, 20, I had very short hair and I was very into the androgynous look. But I was much thinner then and I’ve filled out and become more of a woman now. I don’t think I could pull it off so much now. But I think the androgynous look is so beautiful. It’s one of my favourite looks on women.
當我十九二十歲的時候，頭髮很短，我很迷陰陽人扮相。但我那時很瘦，後來豐滿起來才比較有女人味。我不認為我可以再瘦到像以前那樣。但我覺得雌雄同體美極了。最愛女性造型之一。
DD: You had The Slits play the party for the first collection. What music were you listening to this time around when you designed the collection?
妳曾在初試啼聲派對放「裂縫」的音樂。這次系列都聽什麼？
CS: This time around, I wouldn’t say music so much influenced it. This was more outdoorsy, preppy, alternative, bit grungy.
這次音樂比較不是重點。這次比較戶外，瘋狂二十年華，另類，不修邊幅。
DD: Is designing a nice release after working on a dramatic show like Big Love?
演出【大愛劇場】後，時裝設計是個好出口嗎？
CS: Oh yeah this was fun. I don’t wanna say it’s a vanity project but it kind of is y’know! It’s just something for me to do that’s creative and fun. I get to make pieces I always wanted to wear.
是的，好玩極了。我不想說那是個浮華事物，但你知道的！對我來說就是創意激盪與趣味橫生。我得做些我一直想穿的衣服。
DD: Speaking of which, this season of Big Love seems to be getting deeper and darker. How did you find making it?
話鋒一轉，這季【大愛劇場】似乎更加深沉黑暗。拍攝心得如何？
CS: Nicki (Nicolette Grant, her character) is getting so revved up! She’s getting into sixth gear! It was really hard to do. Towards the end of the season, she is so tortured; everyone is so mean to her. And she deserves it because she causes trouble. But then secrets are revealed about why she’s such a troublemaker.
妮琪 (小賤人) 蠢蠢欲動！妮琪小賤人火力全開！實在騎虎難下。這季快結束時，她飽受折磨；大家都對她很壞。而她活該，因為她老愛惹事生非。但關於妮琪小賤人為什麼這麼紅顏禍水的秘密被解開。
So yeah it was such a nice release doing this after the show. The show is intense 16 hour days. I love doing the show and I love acting in it. This is just a fun thing to do on the side. If I didn’t do this, I’d just be walking around everyday spending money, being too idle y’know!
所以演完妮琪小賤人，設計時裝真是個好出口。影集一天密集拍個十六小時。我喜歡這影集且喜歡參與演出。煞是有趣。如果我沒參與這影集，我將終日溜搭亂花錢，過份遊手好閒你知道的！
DD: You’re one of the few actresses with your own style. Where did that come from?
妳是少數有自己特色的女演員之一。怎麼開始的？
CS: I think it came from my father. He was always a very stylish man. He inspired a lot of the collection, like the preppy pieces. And I was always into fashion magazines. When I was in high school, the library had like 4 years worth of Vogue that they were throwing out. And I took them home and hoarded them! So it’s something I’ve always been into. And I dress myself, I think that’s a difference between me and a lot of the other actresses.
我歸功於老爸。他總是個型男。他在這次系列給我很多靈感，例如瘋狂二十年華。我也一直很熱衷時尚雜誌。高中的時候，圖書館有四年份的「風尚」要丟。我趕緊打包回家小心收藏！所以我成為時尚肖像不是沒有原因的。我自己打扮自己，我想這是我和其他女演員最大不同的地方。
DD: Do you take more inspiration from the streets or from magazines?
妳啟發自街頭多還是雜誌多？
CS: A bit of both. More the street. Magazines can be a little too clean. But certain photographers and stylists’ work are very inspiring to me. I also like to sit in the park and watch the kids go by. I’ve just been hanging out in Milan a lot and surprisingly, there’s like this whole fashion, hipster, weirdo scene there! Which you would never know. That was very unexpected. London is always amazing, so youth-orientated. I think the kids are so much braver here, they really go for it. As for London designers I like, I like Christopher Kane, Marios Schwab, Luella Bartley.
兩邊都有。街頭比較多。雜誌有點太乾淨。但某些攝影師和設計師的作品對我影響真的很大。我也喜歡坐在公園看孩子們走過。多次閒晃米蘭後，出人意表地，整個潮流，時髦，怪咖場景就呈現在我眼前！這你就不知道了。出乎意料。倫敦總是令人驚奇，如此年輕。我覺得這裡的孩子更加勇敢，他們豁出去了。至於倫敦設計師，我喜歡克里斯多福肯恩，馬利歐舒華，蘿拉芭莉。
DD: What fascinates you so much about dressing up? Is it a chance to become a different character?
為什麼如此著迷打扮？那讓妳成為不同角色嗎？
CS: I think it’s a way of identifying yourself with different tribes. I just got that book, "Teenager" by Jon Savage – all about different youth movements and the origins of those. So for me, it’s a way of identifying with other misfits.
我認為那是一種跟不同族群認定自我的方法。剛買了約翰薩維奇寫的《青少年》，關於各式各樣青年運動與起源。所以對我來說，那是和其他年輕人產生認同的方法。
DD: You’ve been part of the Downtown scene in New York since you were a teenager. How do you see it changing?
妳青少年時期就是紐約下城的一份子。如何看待其改變？
CS: I guess it’s getting younger or maybe I’m getting older! The biggest difference for me is that I see these really young kids and I think, should I really be out at this club? (laughs) Last year I thought there was a bit of a socialite thing happening. All these famous sons and daughters descended upon our scene, hanging out in dirty bars wearing Crass t-shirts. And you’re like "What?" It seems like that is sort of the craze right now. But I shouldn’t say that because maybe one day, I’ll have a daughter and she’ll be doing that!
不是紐約變年輕就是我老了！對我來說最大不同就是，當我看著這些孩子，心想「是時候長大了嗎？」(哈) 去年我覺得某種社交圈正形成。這些紈褲子弟與千金紆尊降貴，身穿破爛踢恤混入骯髒酒吧。你心想「是怎樣？」可能現在流行這樣。但我不該這麼說，因為也許有一天，我女兒也有樣學樣。
DD: What movies do you have coming up?
接下來有什麼新片？
CS: I’m working on a film, "Mr Nice" with Rhy Ifans based on the Howard Marks book. Then after that, I’m off to San Diego to do a film with Werner Herzog. (“My Son, My Son, What Have Ye Done”) It’s with Michael Shannon, Willem Defoe and David Lynch is producing it. So it’s a total weirdo project.
我和萊伊凡斯正拍攝【好好先生】，改編自霍華馬克思暢銷書。接著我飛去聖地牙哥演出荷索電影【吾兒，吾兒，看看你做了什麼好事？】與麥可夏儂、威廉達佛，大衛林區製片。有夠詭異。
DD: Complete this sentence, "At heart, I’ll always be..."
請依「我心深處，我永遠是個點點點」造句。
CS: At heart I’ll always be the awkward shy girl!
我心深處，小克永遠是那個彆扭女孩！
敬請期待小克正傳！
Elle (US) June 2009
"I think my legs are a strong point, so I try to draw attention to them rather than the upper part of my body" 小克對自己的雙腿相當有自信
"I definitely spend the most money on shoes," she admits. "Partly because vintage footwear can be a little funky—in a bad way. I like to keep things pretty simple up top and then go weird with the shoes."
"I’m single, so I’m trying to do an overall overhaul," she says with a laugh. "The look I’m going for is very ’80s supermodel. It’s time to be sexy."
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